Tag Archives: Lazareti

Lazareti, the historic quarantine center

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During our warm summer days, I often make my way down to the Peskaria (old port) to wait for the local fishing boats to return with the early morning catch. I sit on the ancient stone bench, a perfect place to watch the sun emerge brightly above the mountain. It shines down on the historical Lazareti building, which begins to glow golden on its perch on the rocky coastline a few meters from the azure blue of the Adriatic Sea.

Sea view of Lazareti

During the 14th and 15th centuries,Dubrovnik was a maritime hub between the Ottoman Empire and the West.  Concerned about contagion from the plague, the Lazareti quarantine center built in 1627 just outside of the Ploce gate to isolate visitors arriving from infected areas.  Prior to the center, all maritime visitors spent 40 days on the islands of Mrkan, Bobara and Supetar just off the coast in Cavtat.

One of the five inner courtyards

The Lazareti comprised of five buildings and was self-contained with a water cistern. Physicians, a barber and priest assisted by attendants to help maintain the very strict regulations.  It continued as a quarantine center until the early 19th Century.  After the Lazareti closed, it began to fall into disrepair from earthquakes, salt air, fire and lack of maintenance.

Entrance to courtyard

The World Monument Fund, a New York based non-profit organization dedicated to preserving endangered ancient historic sites, included the Lazareti on their Watch Help list.  With support from American Express, they began restoration and protected the interior rooms from further destruction.  Dubrovnik Lazareti is one of Europe’s remaining examples of a maritime quarantine center.  The other European structures destroyed after the threat of the plague has passed.

Inner courtyard under the evening stars

With local support, the historical Lazareti has becomeDubrovnik’s vibrant cultural center.   The Lazareti is now home to Desa, a non-government group established in 1993 assisting women and their families cope with the tragedies of the 1991 Homeland War.  In addition, our Lindo Dance Troup performs on Tuesday and Friday evenings at 9:30pm in one of the open air corridors under the stars.  If you are fortunate to be in town during this time, do not miss this magical traditional dancing, it is spectacular.

Lindo Dance Troupe Extraganza

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Last night we sat in front of the TV watching the 45th anniversary performance for the Lindo (lin-jo) traditional dance troupe, gripped by the beauty and dancing.  This elite group performs during high season here in Dubrovnik every Monday and Friday night.  Their show is located at Lazareti Art Workshop* on an open air stage, which gives the audience the opportunity to enjoy the dancing with the Adriatic Sea glowing in the background under twinkling stars and a  moonlit night.

Opening traditional dance

Tickets to this extravaganza sold out very quickly and I was unable to attend, but did not miss the opportunity to watch it on our local Dubrovnik TV channel.  I will need to wait another five years for the really “big show.”

Dance with the musical castanets

Some of the original dancers from the 1965 inaugural season were onstage and performed as dramatically as they did some 45 years ago.  There was one particular dance where the men performed some very intricate footwork, the only music coming from castanets attached to their black leather boots.  The stars of this dance were three of the 1965 original dancers and even with their ages 70 or more, they didn’t miss a step!

The oldtimers

Many of the group today are 3rd generation performers and the finale was danced by almost 300, grandparents, parents and children.  They had come (from the USA, Canada, England and Australia)  to pay homage to their one and only director, Sule Muratovic, the man who has inspired  so many to perform their  traditional dances from different regions with the appropriate costumes and music. This two hour show one of the exciting I’ve ever attended, even if it was via my TV, drinking wine and wearing my jammies.

Handkerchief dance

*Lazareti, also known as ARL, is a cultural center for contemporary art which promotes an active interpretative approach to contemporary art and culture, society, and politics.  The ARL was established in 1977 and is located in the old Dubrovnik harbor quarantine building built in 1377.  Located just outside the old harbor on the Adriatic, this made the quarantine center easily accessible for all incoming ships.  The historic buildings were restored in 2002 and include studios for many artistic groups.

Lazareti from the sea

17 June 2012 Update:

Folklore Ensemble Linđo preforms every Tuesday and Friday  from 15 May until 31 October in Lazareti starting at 2130.  Tickets are 100 Kuna per person.